The Jaeger Schnitzel

The Jaeger Schnitzel is a thinly pounded pan seared pork loin served with spaetzle and red cabbage

What began as an Austrian/German restaurant serving such dishes as Rouladen and sauerbraten has expanded under the sure hand of chef/ owner Henry Haverland and his wife, Margie, to include flatbreads, burgers, a few Italian and Cajun specialties and an array of appetizers. The cuisine can best be described as eclectic international fare. A sausage platter will soon be added to the menu with assorted rotating sausage links, including brätwurst. From the appetizer section, two items immediately struck our fancy. The “Nawlins” Chops is a trio of flame-grilled lamb chops (lollipop size) served with a duo of sauces: rémoulade and ranch. The lamb was succulent, but the rémoulade was a bit too tame for my tastes, needing more Tabasco, cayenne pepper, Worcestershire and lemon juice to provide the jolt of acidic spiciness to counter balance the richness of the lamb. (Also, it’s a little pricey at $20 for three small chops.) The second dish was Chorizo Steamed Mussels that were reminiscent of the same dish I’ve had in Portugal. A dozen impeccably fresh and sweet small black mussels were bathed in a broth of white wine flecked with oregano, red pepper flakes and diced chorizo. Use the accompanying garlic bread to soak up the liquid assets. From the flatbread section, by all means go for the tri-tip version. The smoky meat is blended with fennel, roasted peppers, sautéed onions, pesto, Parmesan and mascarpone cheeses topped with arugula along with a horseradish aioli. The overall flavor profile was quite delicious. However, the thin layer of pesto on the flatbread was difficult to discern. I’d suggest brushing a thicker layer of the horseradish aioli directly on the flatbread and drizzling the pesto atop the arugula to allow its bold flavors to shine through. The Cali Newburg entrée was a triumph, akin to an Italian cioppino with some extra heft provided by diced potatoes and artichoke hearts. Seafood was abundant and included grilled salmon, mussels, clams, somewhat chewy scallops and shrimp offering a pleasing snap when biting into them. Bacon bits and sun-dried tomatoes provided some contrasting texture, and the creamy chardonnay and smoky tomato broth tied everything together. If a straw had been available, I’d have sucked up every last drop! Of course, we had to try at least one Germanic dish, in this case, the Jaeger Schnitzel, an enormous pan seared tender pork tenderloin topped with a very creamy mushroom and onion sauce. It could easily feed two people. Regarding your choice of sides, by all means opt for the sweet red cabbage and spaetzle and you’ll feel like you’ve been transported to Vienna or Munich. It’s a hearty stick-to-your-ribs item that begs to be washed down with one of their rotating craft beers on draught. Don’t skip dessert. The apple strudel is made in house. The apples and accompanying cranberries are butter braised and wrapped in a sinfully delicious phyllo dough, baked then topped with a scoop of vanilla ice cream. Alternately, if you want to finish up with something reminiscent of New Orleans, go for the Banana Nut Bread Foster, an amalgam of spiced rum, heavy cream, spicy sweet pecans and ice cream. The flavors will transport you back to Brennan’s in New Orleans. As Marcel Proust once remarked, “Physical memory (like a flavor or an aroma) is much more powerful than intellectual memory” and more delicious to boot. The Haus Bistro Where: 534 Myrtlewood Drive, Calimesa. Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Friday and Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to 8 p.m. Sunday, Wednesday and Thursday. For more information: Visit thehausbistro.com or call 1-909-446-0557.

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